Natazu
10-21-2007, 02:04 AM
Flying Fish: a Step Beyond the Ordinary
Rating: Five Fishes Flying
What does that mean?: If you are planning to be in the Orlando area in the next six months, stop what you’re doing, call WDW-DINE and make a reservation at Flying Fish right now.
The Review:
Taking a seat in front of the show kitchen, Rachel and I settled in for a few courses of what turned out to be a schedule changing experience. As a result of this wonderful encounter, we cancelled our Thursday Narcoossee’s reservation in favor of an additional trip to Flying Fish. That’s right folks, we skipped one of our favorite restaurants so we could come back for another taste before leaving town. Below is a review of the food and service from both visits plus comments on the 18OCT07 menu changes.
A note about spice selection and menu creation:
With a resume longer than the ending to a Prince song, Tim Keating is the inspiration behind most of what you’ll find on the current Flying Fish menu. While traveling abroad, Chef Tim found an Australian spice company called Bush Dreams and with that discovery, formed the base for a trio of four-star entrees. We were given the opportunity by our astounding server to touch, taste, and feel some of the imported spices in their raw state, among them: pepperberry, wattleseed, lemon myrtle, and citrus/schezuan peppercorn. When you add these spices to the name of an entrée, you are adding true descriptors, not the usual buzzword pitfalls like “tangy” or “zesty” and don’t even get me started on “Applewood”. The Flying Fish menu is as much a delight to read as it is to sample. Keating has done a marvelous job filling the Shaq-sized shoes left by the incomparable Yens Dahlman. In fact, come Monday, I think I’ll let Chef Yens know his former kitchen is in markedly capable hands.
On Tuesday, we tried two appetizers, three entrées and one dessert. The third entrée was a 7 oz sample courtesy of Chef Rudy, master of the sauté. Did I mention: always sit at the chef counter (position 11 & 12 to those in-the-know). The chefs love to give away samples to hungry diners in exchange for a well-deserved thumbs up. On Thursday, we had some of the same things from Tuesday in addition to some new ones. We sat in the dining room this time and noticed it’s a little noisy. Get your seating around 8:30 and by the time your soup arrives, the restaurant will begin to empty and become quieter.
During both visits, we saw exceptional service. Bob on Tuesday and Martha on Thursday were both wonderful and informative. Now that our favorite WDW manager and friend Kira is working at Flying Fish, it comes as no surprise that the staff expertly handles the busy Boardwalk business. From the symphony of movement in the kitchen to the helpful host staff, this venue is more than worthy of the title “Signature Service”.
Starters:
Maine Lobster “Soup and Sandwich”: Lobster Bisque, Fennel, Leek, Fresh & Sun-Dried Tomato Fondue with a Petite Lobster “BLT” - $18
What an awesome presentation. A cute little three-bite BLT sets the scene for a medley of aromas and brilliant visual joyfulness. The soup’s silky texture coats each flavor zone on your tongue and lays there until forced to make room for the adorable little sandwich setting new heights for every other sandwich you’ll eat in the future. Rachel mentioned that the fennel could be just as easily left on the vine (or where ever fennel grows) but as a whole, this appetizer keeps your attention and can even make you forget you’re paying $18 for it.
Potato and Leek Soup - $8
For the most part, potato soup is lost on me but as usual, Kira knows best. She sent a couple of samples out for us to try. Aromas abound as you take your first sip, turning to your first bite once you notice the soft potatoes and velvety, al dente leeks. This is the only potato soup I’d be willing to order at a restaurant.
Crisp Jonah Lump Crab Cake: served on top of Savory Vegetable Slaw, Pea Shoots, Roasted Red Pepper Coulis, Ancho Chili Rémoulade - $14
I’m going to discuss this one backwards. To begin with, make sure there’s bread left on the table when this appetizer shows up. Use the extra coulis with the slaw to make your own bruschetta. The rémoulade is a little spicy but the cool slaw softens it nicely. Pea shoots, hmm, I guess every dish has to have something green left on the plate after you’re finished. The crab cake was heavenly and bursting with crab, not too heavy on the spices or veggies and not at all greasy. This dish has been at Flying Fish since the beginning and for good reason.
Entrées:
Potato-Wrapped Red Snapper with Creamy Leek Fondue and a Red Wine Butter Sauce - $34
Another Flying Fish signature item, it was like the snapper was wrapped in a potato chip. The flavor was unable to escape its potatoey prison so it was just stuck there waiting for me to reel it in. The bottom soaked up the cream so it was possible to cut without the whole item blowing up. I turned away from the leeks at first but in the spirit of a complete review, I tried them. The cream sauce smoothed-out the texture making the leeks quite enjoyable. The dish would have been fine without the red wine sauce but it added a level of complexity uncommon to whitefish courses.
Citrus/Schezuan Peppercorn-spiced Yellowfin Tuna Loin with Bok Choy, Asian Mushrooms, Tiny Carrots & Radishes, Curried Carrot-Coconut Emulsion - $34
First of all, if you don’t like peppercorn, curry or coconut, don’t worry. The negative things you associate with these strong flavors do not overpower this dish. The flavors blend perfectly and none of the dish is at all spicy. The carrots and radishes were crisp and the mushrooms were firm. The tuna was prepared exactly to order and the presentation was beautiful. Rachel felt bad that she couldn’t finish the whole thing.
Pan-Roasted Australian Lemon Myrtle-scented Tiger Shrimp, Young Artichoke, Fennel, Tomato & Olive-laced Fregola Sardo, Tomato-basil Beurre Blanc - $30
It saddens me greatly that this item is no longer on the menu. Plump, tender shrimp that pulled right out of the shell with the slightest tug. The risotto, I mean Fregola Sardo, teems with a medley of flavors locked in by the sauce. It doesn’t even need the shrimp to be a winning dish. Hopefully, this item will return one day.
Char-Crusted New York Strip Steak with roasted fingerling potatoes & root vegetables, broccolini, and classic sauce foyot
Charred outside but a perfect medium-rare on the inside. Rachel couldn’t decide which to eat first, the veggies, the potatoes, or the steak. I stole a piece of steak for about every bite she took. You’d never know you were in a seafood place if you based your investigation on this steak. The sauce was great for the sides. The steak was great on its own.
Dessert:
Warm Valrhona Chocolate Galette with Dark Chocolate Gelato & Raspberries - $8
A better version of other Valrhona cakes around Mouseland, the Galette is a shorter, wider chocolate cake with an admirable balance of sweet and bitter chocolate tastes. The appealing presentation is anchored in functionality. Atop the cake is a thick chocolate sauce holding a scoop of gelato and a decorative wafer. Rachel noticed the wafer garnish is a great accompaniment to the smooth, flavorful gelato bringing a crunch to the otherwise predictable texture. Very dense and rich, this dessert goes a long way for the price. Share one with someone special today.
Rating: Five Fishes Flying
What does that mean?: If you are planning to be in the Orlando area in the next six months, stop what you’re doing, call WDW-DINE and make a reservation at Flying Fish right now.
The Review:
Taking a seat in front of the show kitchen, Rachel and I settled in for a few courses of what turned out to be a schedule changing experience. As a result of this wonderful encounter, we cancelled our Thursday Narcoossee’s reservation in favor of an additional trip to Flying Fish. That’s right folks, we skipped one of our favorite restaurants so we could come back for another taste before leaving town. Below is a review of the food and service from both visits plus comments on the 18OCT07 menu changes.
A note about spice selection and menu creation:
With a resume longer than the ending to a Prince song, Tim Keating is the inspiration behind most of what you’ll find on the current Flying Fish menu. While traveling abroad, Chef Tim found an Australian spice company called Bush Dreams and with that discovery, formed the base for a trio of four-star entrees. We were given the opportunity by our astounding server to touch, taste, and feel some of the imported spices in their raw state, among them: pepperberry, wattleseed, lemon myrtle, and citrus/schezuan peppercorn. When you add these spices to the name of an entrée, you are adding true descriptors, not the usual buzzword pitfalls like “tangy” or “zesty” and don’t even get me started on “Applewood”. The Flying Fish menu is as much a delight to read as it is to sample. Keating has done a marvelous job filling the Shaq-sized shoes left by the incomparable Yens Dahlman. In fact, come Monday, I think I’ll let Chef Yens know his former kitchen is in markedly capable hands.
On Tuesday, we tried two appetizers, three entrées and one dessert. The third entrée was a 7 oz sample courtesy of Chef Rudy, master of the sauté. Did I mention: always sit at the chef counter (position 11 & 12 to those in-the-know). The chefs love to give away samples to hungry diners in exchange for a well-deserved thumbs up. On Thursday, we had some of the same things from Tuesday in addition to some new ones. We sat in the dining room this time and noticed it’s a little noisy. Get your seating around 8:30 and by the time your soup arrives, the restaurant will begin to empty and become quieter.
During both visits, we saw exceptional service. Bob on Tuesday and Martha on Thursday were both wonderful and informative. Now that our favorite WDW manager and friend Kira is working at Flying Fish, it comes as no surprise that the staff expertly handles the busy Boardwalk business. From the symphony of movement in the kitchen to the helpful host staff, this venue is more than worthy of the title “Signature Service”.
Starters:
Maine Lobster “Soup and Sandwich”: Lobster Bisque, Fennel, Leek, Fresh & Sun-Dried Tomato Fondue with a Petite Lobster “BLT” - $18
What an awesome presentation. A cute little three-bite BLT sets the scene for a medley of aromas and brilliant visual joyfulness. The soup’s silky texture coats each flavor zone on your tongue and lays there until forced to make room for the adorable little sandwich setting new heights for every other sandwich you’ll eat in the future. Rachel mentioned that the fennel could be just as easily left on the vine (or where ever fennel grows) but as a whole, this appetizer keeps your attention and can even make you forget you’re paying $18 for it.
Potato and Leek Soup - $8
For the most part, potato soup is lost on me but as usual, Kira knows best. She sent a couple of samples out for us to try. Aromas abound as you take your first sip, turning to your first bite once you notice the soft potatoes and velvety, al dente leeks. This is the only potato soup I’d be willing to order at a restaurant.
Crisp Jonah Lump Crab Cake: served on top of Savory Vegetable Slaw, Pea Shoots, Roasted Red Pepper Coulis, Ancho Chili Rémoulade - $14
I’m going to discuss this one backwards. To begin with, make sure there’s bread left on the table when this appetizer shows up. Use the extra coulis with the slaw to make your own bruschetta. The rémoulade is a little spicy but the cool slaw softens it nicely. Pea shoots, hmm, I guess every dish has to have something green left on the plate after you’re finished. The crab cake was heavenly and bursting with crab, not too heavy on the spices or veggies and not at all greasy. This dish has been at Flying Fish since the beginning and for good reason.
Entrées:
Potato-Wrapped Red Snapper with Creamy Leek Fondue and a Red Wine Butter Sauce - $34
Another Flying Fish signature item, it was like the snapper was wrapped in a potato chip. The flavor was unable to escape its potatoey prison so it was just stuck there waiting for me to reel it in. The bottom soaked up the cream so it was possible to cut without the whole item blowing up. I turned away from the leeks at first but in the spirit of a complete review, I tried them. The cream sauce smoothed-out the texture making the leeks quite enjoyable. The dish would have been fine without the red wine sauce but it added a level of complexity uncommon to whitefish courses.
Citrus/Schezuan Peppercorn-spiced Yellowfin Tuna Loin with Bok Choy, Asian Mushrooms, Tiny Carrots & Radishes, Curried Carrot-Coconut Emulsion - $34
First of all, if you don’t like peppercorn, curry or coconut, don’t worry. The negative things you associate with these strong flavors do not overpower this dish. The flavors blend perfectly and none of the dish is at all spicy. The carrots and radishes were crisp and the mushrooms were firm. The tuna was prepared exactly to order and the presentation was beautiful. Rachel felt bad that she couldn’t finish the whole thing.
Pan-Roasted Australian Lemon Myrtle-scented Tiger Shrimp, Young Artichoke, Fennel, Tomato & Olive-laced Fregola Sardo, Tomato-basil Beurre Blanc - $30
It saddens me greatly that this item is no longer on the menu. Plump, tender shrimp that pulled right out of the shell with the slightest tug. The risotto, I mean Fregola Sardo, teems with a medley of flavors locked in by the sauce. It doesn’t even need the shrimp to be a winning dish. Hopefully, this item will return one day.
Char-Crusted New York Strip Steak with roasted fingerling potatoes & root vegetables, broccolini, and classic sauce foyot
Charred outside but a perfect medium-rare on the inside. Rachel couldn’t decide which to eat first, the veggies, the potatoes, or the steak. I stole a piece of steak for about every bite she took. You’d never know you were in a seafood place if you based your investigation on this steak. The sauce was great for the sides. The steak was great on its own.
Dessert:
Warm Valrhona Chocolate Galette with Dark Chocolate Gelato & Raspberries - $8
A better version of other Valrhona cakes around Mouseland, the Galette is a shorter, wider chocolate cake with an admirable balance of sweet and bitter chocolate tastes. The appealing presentation is anchored in functionality. Atop the cake is a thick chocolate sauce holding a scoop of gelato and a decorative wafer. Rachel noticed the wafer garnish is a great accompaniment to the smooth, flavorful gelato bringing a crunch to the otherwise predictable texture. Very dense and rich, this dessert goes a long way for the price. Share one with someone special today.